How to Dress for Below-Zero Weather: A Head-to-Toe Guide

The short answer: To stay comfortable walking or hiking below zero, wear three layers (a light base layer, a fleece or wool mid-layer, and a windproof insulated outer layer), wool socks and insulated waterproof boots, warm mittens instead of gloves, and a hat plus hood and face covering that blocks wind. Dress for the actual air temperature, not the wind chill, and cover any exposed skin when it’s windy.

I walk, hike and snowshoe in our Minnesota winters regularly, even when the temps plunge below zero. I don’t believe in staying inside all winter! As we outdoors folks hear all the time: There’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear.

Below is exactly what I wear on a typical below-zero day for my daily neighborhood walk, and the two changes I make when it gets colder.

(NOTE: This guide is for low-intensity activities like walking, hiking and snowshoeing on level trails. It would be much too warm for cross country skiing, trail running or intense snowshoeing.)

Quick Reference: What I Wear at 0º

Body Part	What I Wear
Head	Wind-proof wool hat, plus hood if windy
Face	Seirus NeoFleece Combo Scarf
Torso	Short-sleeve wicking tee, mid-weight fleece, down coat
Hands	Polar Mitts (heavy-weight fleece)
Legs	Thin leggings, fleece pants, Gore-Tex rain pants or running tights under downhill ski pants
Feet	Wool socks, waterproof leather hiking boots
At -20º F	Swap insulated snow boots and add a thicker layer under the down coat

Should You Dress for Temperature or Wind Chill?

Dress for the air temperature. Use wind chill to decide how much skin to cover.

We make a big deal here about wind chill factor. And we should—it’s a big deal for exposed skin.

But in my experience, 20º below air temperature and a 20-below wind chill feel different when I’m moving for an hour. In the past, I’ve over-dressed by choosing gear based on wind chill instead of air temp, and got too warm.

Here’s what I mean: On one calm day I was out in about -3º F. On another it was about 0º F with 20-below wind chills. I wore the same clothes both times. The only difference was that I kept my hood up and cinched tighter to protect my face.

Wind is the reason we stress wearing windproof or wind-resistant materials so much. They work the same whether we have a 5º wind chill or a -25º wind chill.

How cold is too cold? Frostbite and safety basics.

In our climate, it’s important to know when conditions became dangerous.

[NOTE: School districts will sometimes close if the temps and wind chills are below a certain threshold. School children are often not dressed for the weather when they’re waiting for the bus, and we want them to be safe. But that doesn’t mean it’s too cold to be outside at all, as long as we’re in the right gear.]

• Frostbite depends on wind chill. Twin Cities meteorologists report that at wind chills near -20º F, frostbite can set in on exposed skin in 25-30 minutes. It only takes 10-15 minutes at -30º F.
• The National Weather Service now uses Cold Weather Advisories and Extreme Cold Watches and Warnings in place of the old wind chill headlines.
• I don’t mind -20-30º F wind chills personally. But if it gets below that, I’ll usually skip it and get on our elliptical inside.
• Wet clothing raises the risk of hypothermia—if you sweat through a layer, get chilled and will still be out for a while, that can be bad. That’s why a wicking tee is better than a cotton tee.
• It’s normal for my hands and feet to be cold for the first mile. But if yours don’t warm up, or get colder and numb, turn around and get someplace warm.
• Always check the local forecast before heading out (including air temp and wind chill) and dress accordingly.

Sunny days pose a tricky problem.

I’ve learned that it’s best to get outside early in the day when it’s very cold outside for two reasons:

• Sunglasses and face masks don’t mix. The snow is blinding on sunny winter days, which makes sunglasses a must. But when I wear them along with my Seirus NeoFleece, they always fog up.
• The snow on the roads and trails is harder in the mornings. Later in the day, the sun and warmer temps will soften the snow and make it harder to walk or run on. Soft snow is like walking in sand!

What to Wear on Your Head and Face

The photo below shows my go-to frigid day head gear:

A. Wool hat.

Wool is super warm, even if it gets wet with snow. But it isn’t naturally wind-resistant. I used to pair this one in the photo with item C below. Then my sister gave me a NorWear wool hat for Christmas recently, and I’ve never looked back. It’s the warmest hat I’ve ever had, and is also windproof. Unfortunately, you have to go to Norway to get one (which is where my sister bought mine)! I had no success finding one online in the US.

B. Seirus NeoFleece® ComboScarf.

This provides both warmth and wind block for my nose and lower face. I write all about that here. My face never gets cold with it.

C. Columbia Omni-Heat® Beanie

I found this thin little black beanie on a clearance rack somewhere years ago, and it’s surprisingly warm, and windproof. It’s fits easily under a wool hat. Unfortunately, Columbia hasn’t continued making them.

Your Hood

When the wind picks up and the wind chills plummet, I always wear my hood along with my hat (as you can see in the photo at the top). It’s incredible how much your hood will keep the wind from blowing across your face.

The D item in the above photo are these attached hand cuffs that are part of my coat. I love them when I have to take my mittens off for anything. They provide a bit of warmth and wind-blocking for a few minutes at a time. Most coats don’t have them, but lots of long-sleeve workout tops do. An option.

What to Wear on Your Upper Body

My personal favorite insulator for below-zero weather is down. It’s so light and so warm, and provides natural wind-resistance.

Buy a down coat from a quality manufacturer (mine is from Lands End) and you also get a water-resistant shell, a great fit, zippers that work, a coat that’ll last you for years. You might even get fleece-lined pockets like mine has. A coat that covers your hips will be warmer than one at waist-length, FYI.

A Safety Tip: If your walking route takes you on roads like mine do, wear a high-visibility color! I want drivers to see me easily.

Underneath my coat, I’m wearing a:

• Short-sleeve wicking tee
• Micro-fleece quarter-zip pullover.

What to Wear on Your Hands

For these cold, cold days I go with my Polar Mitts for my hands. While not technically windproof, the fleece used in these is so wonderfully thick that a 20-below wind chill doesn’t matter.

These particular ones I own are made of faux fur and are lined with Polartec 200. I love the Alpine trim!

Your hands may not get as cold as mine, but I definitely recommend mittens over gloves on these really cold days. Gloves separate your fingers while mittens keep them together and warmer.

What to Wear on Your Legs

I go with one of two combinations for my lower body when the temps are below zero:

• Thin base-layer leggings + fleece pants + Gore-Tex rain pants. The fleece provides the warmth and the rain pants act as a shell to block the wind.
• Winter running tights under downhill ski pants. Regular snow pants work too, but I happen to have some very nice ski pants (even though I’m not much of a downhiller, lol! My husband bought them for me one Christmas.) They provide both insulation and wind protection.

What to Wear on Your Feet

When I keep my core and legs are warm, my hands and feet stay warm (or warm up quickly). Here’s what I wear on my feet in sub-zero temps:

• Wool socks. Not just socks that say “wool” but that actually have a high percentage of merino wool (30% and up works well for me). I use brands like Icebreaker and Darn Tough. But these pricey outdoor brands aren’t always necessary. I bought a 3-pack of wool socks at Sam’s Club about 15 years ago—have no idea of the brand, but they’re not fancy—and they’re just as warm as my name-brand socks.
• Waterproof, ankle-high hiking boots. Mine are LL Bean Alpine Hikers made with waterproof leather. They’re comfy and windproof, too. Unfortunately, LL Bean doesn’t make that particular model anymore, but any waterproof footwear will also be windproof. Leather is a bonus. I don’t need actual snow boots for warmth until the next section…

Not everyone’s feet get as cold as mine do. I’ve had mild frostbite a couple of times so they tend to get cold pretty quickly. I’ve found that as long as my feet are warm before I leave the house, they stay warm in these boots, even in these temps, for an hour’s walk in my neighborhood.

What Changes at -20º F?

When the air temperature itself—not just the wind chill—reaches down to minus 15-20 F, I only make these two changes:

• I switch to my Baffin snow boots. These are rated for -50º F. I haven’t been able to test that level of cold yet, lol, but they did just fine one morning when it was -30º F!
• I’ll switch out the micro-fleece layer with something warmer.

This setup has worked for me on the Gunflint Trail in northern Minnesota, where I like to head at least once a winter if I can.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the best layering system for below-zero weather?

Three layers: a light base layer, an insulating mid-layer like fleece or wool, and a windproof insulated outer layer. I prefer a down coat. You can adjust the mid-layer thickness based on your own body’s thermostat and how active you’ll be.

What should I not wear in below-zero weather?

Avoid cotton against your skin (tops, bottoms, socks). Cotton holds moisture from sweat and will cause you to lose warmth. Footwear should be roomy enough for your toes to move, so don’t wear tight boots or shoes.

Are mittens warmer than gloves?

Yes. Mittens help your fingers and thumbs share heat.

How long can I stay outside at -20º F?

It depends on wind, your clothing and your activity. If the wind chill is nasty, be sure you cover your face. The real risk is exposed skin, so as long as you’re covered and warm, stay out as long as you want to. At home, I’m usually out for an hour’s walk. When I’m up north, sometimes 2-3 hours or more.

Do I dress for wind chill or temperature?

I dress for the air temperature, then cover my face/nose based on wind chill.

Can kids and dogs go out in below-zero weather?

I’ll never forget a TV show I saw years ago of young children in Siberia playing outside for recess in the dead of winter…with big smiles on their faces! They were all wearing fur—one of the warmest materials in nature. So it’s really the same as with adults. If they’re dressed appropriately, are active and staying warm in the air temp and wind chill, they should be fine. Of course the younger they are, the more you’ll need to supervise.

Dogs? It depends on the breed. We had labs and they loved being outside year-round. A -20º morning hour’s walk didn’t faze them one bit. (But then they were bred to swim in the North Atlantic.) Long-haired dogs should do fine, but short-haired dogs will have a harder time, even with a blanket. Give it a try and see how yours does!

Where can I go winter hiking in the Twin Cities?

I wrote a blog post about that: Winter Hiking in Twin Cities Parks. You can start there.

[This blog post was first published in January, 2022 and has been updated.]

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